Helpful hints to assist you and your horse get the best out of your Solution treeless saddle.
If you have any fitting queries, please do not hesitate to contact your Approved Advisor as they have seen you and your horse, conducted an assessment and fitting and are in the best position to provide you with any ongoing support.
Click on a title below or scroll down to read more.
Positioning the saddle and checking the fit
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Positioning the saddle
It is unnecessary to place the saddle as far back as many treed saddles require to be placed, as the flexible Solution will not restrict the lift and swing of the horse’s shoulder, but lift and move with it. This is particularly the case with the more forward cut models (GP and Jumper), where the flap can lie comfortably on the shoulder.
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The tree points of a traditional saddle would restrict
and bruise the scapula if the girth was positioned
correctly. For this reason, treed saddles have to be
placed further back. |
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Maisie the Mule’s upright shoulder was impossible to fit with any jumping saddle other
than a Solution.
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1 - Start with the saddle well forward – it will flex snugly into position as you tighten the girth.
2 - Before fastening the girth, check that the centre seams of the saddle cloth and the DSP if used, are lined up straight.
3 - Put your thumb under the front of the saddle cloth and pull it up firmly into the underside of the saddle, slightly lifting the front of the saddle as you do so to ensure that the cloth will not be pulled down onto the wither
4 - Pass the billets through the saddle cloth girth loops.
Correctly positioned, the girth billets straps will hang vertically and straight just behind the elbow with the horse standing squarely and the forelimb also vertical.
5 - The girth should lie across the broadest area of the pectoral muscles and the sternum and should not be further back onto the xiphoid cartilage process. |
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Checking the fit
The fitting check is done with the rider mounted and the girth tightened. The saddle should be as close to the withers as possible without causing uneven uneven pressure.
There is no need for clearance (or the old rules for treed saddles: three fingers gap under the pommel and daylight through the channel etc), as we are no longer trying to protect the horse’s back from a steel frame. Instead, we are just aiming for close, even contact around the back, with no pressure points. |
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At halt, you should just be able to push one finger knuckle (without a glove on!) under the front binding of the pommel, between the saddle and the saddle cloth or pads
“The walking finger test” is used to gauge optimum fit.
It may feel a little tight at halt, but as the horse walks forwards, he will lift the base panels of the saddle with his shoulders and back muscles and the whole saddle will ride a little higher.
You should feel this lightening of the pressure on your finger, giving the sensation that your knuckle is held snugly in place without being tightly squeezed.
If you cannot feel this lightening of pressure and your knuckle is uncomfortable, then the fit is too tight.
If you have the saddle fitted too high or loose on the back, there may be a loss of stability as the saddle will not be engaging correctly with the back and flexing with the movement. |
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Fitting Solution balance pads
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Dorsal Supplement pads
The Dorsal Supplement Pad (DSP)is a gulleted pad which supports the under panels of the saddle, designed to give support where the back
is lacking dorsal muscle. It is used to ensure that the spine is evenly bridged and pressure avoided.
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The Dorsal Supplement Pad can be layered
on top
of the saddle cloth before putting the saddle on the horse.
The Velcro panels hold the
pad in place. |
The Dorsal Supplement Pad
can be used in conjunction
with either front or rear
shims as required. |
The Velcro opening along the
back seam allows the cover to
be opened and shims
inserted if required. |
Make sure the DSP is fitted with the central gullet sitting
straight along the horse’s
spine and the saddle is
supported by the pad,
and not overlapping
onto the saddlecloth. |
The Standard Dorsal Supplement Pad
Gives a level lift along the length of the saddle with a single thickness. Useful where the saddle balance is good for the rider, but the fit is a little low on the horse’s back because of a prominent spine.
The Front Wedge Dorsal Supplement Pad (FWDSP)
Designed to give more lift at the front for a high withered horse or where the rider needs to be positioned further back.
Shims
Shoulder shims
Provide extra support for a prominent wither and fill the “tree point hollows” either side of it. Shims support the front of the saddle to give lift over the wither and can also be used to help balance the rider by raising the front of the saddle and placing weight back over seatbones.
Rear shims
Lift the rear of the saddle providing more cantle support to the seat. They can also be used for rider balance if the horse has a dipped or asymetrical back.
To fit shims:
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Tack up your horse as you would normally with a saddle cloth and saddle, then before girthing
up, ease up the front of the
saddle in order to slide the shim
into place between the saddle
and the saddle cloth. |
Shims can also be used in conjunction with a DSP to give extra support.
In most cases they should be fitted on the
underside of the DSP, next to the horse. |
Shims can be velcroed directly onto the saddlecloth which will help ensure correct placement Although the material is tough
and long lasting, if the shims are being moved frequently,
the soft leather covered option will protect and make the foam
more durable. |
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Fitting The Solution elasticated cross-over breastgirth
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The Solution breastgirth is the only design that is fitted with straps that move and stretch independently, so eliminating pressure points and allowing complete freedom of movement.
Fitting The Solution crossover breastgirth
It is important that the design of any breastgirth does not hamper the movement of the scapula, but in order to be of any
benefit, it must be fitted so that there is some tension on the saddle and the girth. - For this reason, it is essential that the
straps are fully elasticated.
Easy to use:
Simply clip the lower strap to the top D rings pass the girth through the girth strap and clip the top strap to the knee D rings.
Security and stability:
The girth strap helps the girth to stay in place and ensures it does not slide back.
Perfect fit:
The breastgirth should fit snugly when the horse is standing, as it will be looser when the neck is raised in movement. The tension should be equal on all straps and the leather straps can be adjusted as needed.
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1. Clip the breast girth bottom strap to the top D rings on the
saddle. |
2. Clip the breast girth top strap to the knee D rings or
remove the clips and loop
through the girth billets. |
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3. Pass the girth through the girth strap and girth up.
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4. Check the tension is equal on all straps and
adjust the buckles if necessary. |
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Girthing and mounting technique
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Girthing technique
The unique features of the recommended girths allow the user to employ a non-irritant method of girthing the horse, particularly in retraining a horse who has suffered discomfort in the past from tack or insensitive saddling methods.
Try this graduated method: Buckle the girth loosely so that it is just touching the skin, and pull it into position over the sternum and behind the elbow. Make sure that the horse is standing squarely and not tucking his foreleg under his body.
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Hold a girth strap and, standing squarely balanced yourself, lean backwards and allow your bodyweight to gradually pull the girth towards you.
The horse will naturally brace himself against this pull, and the elastic in the girth will
start to engage.
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Whilst holding the strap taught with one hand, slide the roller buckle up into the next hole and gradually release the strap.
Because this method does not pinch, the horse will not notice the tightening. Repeat alternately with each strap until the girth is tight enough
to mount.
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Check and if necessary, tighten the girth again from the mounting block before mounting. |
As soon as the rider is mounted, the girth should be tightened again; this is not because you need the girth tighter with a Solution saddle, but because the saddle will open and drop around the barrel, having the effect of loosening the girth. |
It is a good idea to loosen the girth before dismounting as when the weight of the rider is removed from the saddle it will spring up, having the effect of tightening the girth and making it more difficult to loosen from the ground.
We recommend the Wintec girth as this has some give in it which prevents over tightening.
We also recommend that the only accurate way to check your girth is to take a pull on the girth straps – if it goes up a hole, it was too loose - do not lean down and put your hand under the girth to check it as this twists the flexible saddle and may make the girth feel quite tight. Some horses are sensitive to this and will tighten their rib cage against it.
It is possible that with a narrow horse the girth may seem tighter than normal. It is quite common for narrow horses to be ridden with a fairly loose girth on a conventional treed saddle because the clothes peg effect of the tree points can grip against the wither and hold the saddle firmly in place, even when mounting from the ground. This can cause injury to the dorsal spinal processes and the soft tissue support structures of the back. The Solution saddle’s soft layering system will not damage the back. |
Mounting technique
Wherever possible, in order to mount in a way that is most comfortable for the horse, use a mounting block or a leg-up. If this is not possible, use an assistant to counterbalance the saddle by holding the stirrup on the other side.
Where necessary, mounting from the ground can be easily achieved if the correct technique is used. The stirrup should be long enough so that it can be easily reached and the toe is not pushed into the horse’s barrel.
Ensure that the girth is securely tightened. |
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Springing from the right foot vigorously will ensure that the arms are not overused to pull the rider’s weight up.
The right hand should be used to push down on the right side of the saddle, either on the skirt or knee flap. |
Maintain balance on the left stirrup while the right knee is raised and swung upwards and forwards.
The upper body is used to counterbalance the saddle and keep it straight on the horse’s back. |
The right leg is carefully swung forward to align the hips before sitting gently into the seat. |
The weight of the rider in the flexible saddle will allow it to mould around the barrel, with the effect of loosening the girth. For this reason, the girth should always be re-tightened before moving off.
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Fitting dressage webbers
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To attach dressage webbers to
an Energist model, undo the
skirt lace and fold the skirt flap back to expose the stirrup bar.
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Swivel the stirrup bar up slightly to allow the loop end of the Webber to be slipped easily onto the open end of the bar. |
Push the Webber loop firmly
onto the stirrup bar and pull it down firmly to swivel the bar back into position.
NB – the Webber is shown here with the soft hide uppermost, but placing the hide next to the flap leather will reduce any scuffing. |
Thread the lace back through
the skirt flap to close.
Pull the lace down firmly to secure the skirt firmly into place.
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Adjusting dressage Webbers
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To adjust the Webber length, twist the T bar hook through 45 degrees and unhook from slot.
Rehook into selected slot and twist until perpendicular.
Pull down firmly on the T bar to secure it place in the slot. |
Pull the keeper down firmly over the hook.
NB – older (pre 2008) versions of the Bates Webber do not have the leather keeper. |
The stirrup should be attached with the rolled edge of the tread outwards to face backwards when positioned onto the foot.
The Webber is shown here with the soft hide side facing outwards, but flap scuffing is reduced if the hide is against the flap leather. |
To fasten the Webbers when not in use, hook the T bar into the slot near the top loop of the Webber. |
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The stirrup can then be run up and the strap tucked through in the conventional way.
It is important to fasten the stirrups up when the rider is not mounted to avoid them
catching on any obtrusions. |
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Fitting stirrups
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We only recommend the Royal Rider lightweight polymer stirrups for use with Solution saddles.
The stirrup should be fitted with the rolled edge of the tread facing outwards to be positioned facing backwards on the rider’s foot. |
The stirrup incorrectly fitted with the rolled edge facing inwards. |
If the stirrups are crossed over the saddle, the rolled edge of the treads should always face outwards to avoid scratching the flap leather. |
The stirrups incorrectly crossed over with the rolled edge of the tread against the flap. |
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The open-ended stirrup bar is semi-recessed behind the pommel, but we recommend using the low profile buckle of Bates leathers to avoid bulk under the leg. |
The stirrup bar can be swivelled upwards to allow the leather to be easily slipped over the open end. |
Push the stirrup leather fully home along the bar – it is angled to help prevent the stirrup leather coming off accidentally.
Pull down firmly on the bottom leather until the buckle is firmly held up against the bar. |
Push the end strap through the keeper to keep the buckle securely flat against the bar. |
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